Can someone tell me what this wire is for? I’ve been wanting to install a dashcam and came across this but don’t know what it’s for…I have a 2019 Ioniq Blue.
That’s the camera for lane assist. Unfortunately, we can’t use it as a dashcam.
lizbeth said:
That’s the camera for lane assist. Unfortunately, we can’t use it as a dashcam.
No, but since there is wiring there, it means there’s nearby power, which can be tapped into with an aftermarket camera. That’s what I did with my 2018 Elantra using the dome lights.
@Bright
That’s not a good idea. The pre-installed wires are too thin to handle additional load.
You can buy a hardwire kit for much less than the cost of replacing an OEM harness later on.
Megan said:
@Bright
That’s not a good idea. The pre-installed wires are too thin to handle additional load.
You can buy a hardwire kit for much less than the cost of replacing an OEM harness later on.
Lol, you’re kidding, right?
Additional load? Do you realize how much current a typical dash cam draws?
A typical dash cam draws about 200 to 300 milliamps at 5 volts.
At 12 volts, that’s usually under 100 milliamps.
You definitely can and should tap into those wires for powering a dash cam.
@Frankie
For small sensors connected to computer units, 24 gauge or smaller wire is used, and your dashcam won’t be the only load on that circuit.
It may work fine for a while, but wiring in the roof or on the windshield will be exposed to heat that exceeds the upper limits of the OEM wire insulation, which means its load capacity is less than expected.
Go ahead, but know you risk a repair that could involve a lot of work to replace a harness.
@Megan
If you splice correctly, it won’t make any difference. The power a dash cam uses is minimal compared to what you’re worrying about. The small change in ambient temperature is more significant than any issue from a well-spliced wire.
@EntourageExpert
How would you do the splice correctly with 24 AWG?
Megan said:
@EntourageExpert
How would you do the splice correctly with 24 AWG?
Solder with flux, use small heat shrink for each wire, then larger heat shrink for the whole cable.
@EntourageExpert
The problem with solder is that its resistance is usually 5 to 10 times higher than that of the copper wire, and while you might think you can twist it tight enough before soldering for good contact, the OEM harness has little extra length for stripping, overlapping, and twisting. This makes it easier for the strands of such small wire to break inside the insulation near the splice.
So, I don’t know, just be aware of that. It’s likely to fail even if it seems to work at first.
@Megan
Genuine question: what about depinning the connector and tapping directly there? There wouldn’t be much harness modification, which means less chance of long-term damage.
@Megan
I totally understand, and I’d never take my car to the dealer if something went wrong after modifying it like this. I’m just saying it’s possible to do it well.
@Megan
It depends on the car. Most have extra power wired from the factory for optional features. That’s why many dash cam instructions suggest looking for power wires in that area.
BlueCarEnthusiast said:
@Megan
It depends on the car. Most have extra power wired from the factory for optional features. That’s why many dash cam instructions suggest looking for power wires in that area.
Many dash cams come from companies that don’t care about keeping your warranty intact and usually have disclaimers regarding that.
@Bright
Some people really don’t get it when they know nothing about the topic and downvote realistic suggestions, lol. I connected my dashcam to the power output for the sensors. It was different for my Elantra N, but it should work.
Check out this tutorial for the Elantra N:
lizbeth said:
That’s the camera for lane assist. Unfortunately, we can’t use it as a dashcam.
So we aren’t as fancy as Tesla?
That’s the auto-defog sensor: Auto-Defog Sensor on eBay